This formulation was designed to provide broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <3) label SPF 30 performance. SolaStay® S1 provides very rapid and efficient excited state quenching of Avobenzone, protecting it from photodegradation. SolaStay® S1 also mitigates the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species generating activities of the oxide to improve sunscreen performance. HallBrite® BHB contributes to UV filter solubility and enhances product feel. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~35 (30), PFA (PPD) ~19 performance with critical wavelength 380 nm.
| Sequence | Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
| A | SolaStay® S1* | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | 2.00 |
| Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 5.00 | ||
| HALLBRITE® BHB* | Butyloctyl Salicylate | 5.00 | |
| C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate | 10.00 | ||
| B | Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide], Aluminum Hydroxide (60 nm primary particle size) | 3.00 | |
| C | Ethylhexyl Triazone | 1.50 | |
| VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.00 | ||
| Tri-C14-15 Alkyl Citrate | 1.50 | ||
| Ceteareth-25, Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate | 3.00 | ||
| D | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 2.40 | |
| E | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | Up to 100 | |
| Glycerin | 4.00 | ||
| Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | ||
| Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.20 | ||
| F | Preservative | a.n. | |
| G | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | 9.60 | |
| Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum | 0.40 | ||
| H | Cyclopentasiloxane | 2.50 | |
| Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate | 1.50 |
Formula No. JZ8-175
PROCEDURE:
1. To a secondary vessel add phase A, start mixing, add phase B to phase A, and heat phase AB to 70°C.
2. Add phase C ingredients to phase AB with continued mixing, then, add phase D to phase ABC and mix
until completely dissolved.
3. Add liquids from phase E to the main vessel, dissolve Disodium EDTA, then add Xanthan Gum and mix
until fully incorporated.
4. Start heating phase E to 70°C.
5. With both phases are homogeneous and at temperature, add oil phase ABCD to water phase E with
mixing.
6. After mixing for five minutes, start cooling and homogenize until batch reaches 55°C (or 3 minutes),
then return to prop mixing with continued cooling.
7. At 45°C or lower, add phase F, and very slowly add premix of phase G and continue mixing for 20
minutes.
8. Add phase H and mix well. Replace any water lost to evaporation and mix batch until smooth.
