This BB cream formulation was designed to provide superior broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <3), label SPF 40 performance. SolaStay® S1 provides very rapid and efficient excited state quenching of Avobenzone and also mitigates the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species generating activities of the oxides to improve sunscreen performance. HallBrite® BHB, Sensolene® and HallTress®DIBA Special contribute to UV filter solubility and enhance product feel. Eurol® BT contributes its antiaging, skin elasticizing, anti-oxidant and moisturizing properties. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~45 , PFA (PPD) ~21 performance with critical wavelength 382 nm.
| Sequence | Trade Name | INCI Name | % |
| A | SolaStay® S1* | Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene | 2.00 |
| SENSOLENE® | Ethylhexyl Olivate | 2.00 | |
| HALLTRESS® DIBA SPECIAL |
Diisobutyl Adipate | 5.00 | |
| HALLBRITE® BHB* |
Butyloctyl Salicylate | 5.00 | |
| Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] | 5.00 | ||
| B | Iron Oxides (yellow) (CI 77492), Triethoxycaprylylsilane |
1.30 | |
| Iron Oxides (red) (CI 77491), Triethoxycaprylylsilane |
0.42 | ||
| Iron Oxides (black) (CI 77499), Triethoxycaprylylsilane |
0.13 | ||
| C | Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide] (CI 77891), Triethoxycaprylylsilane | 5.00 | |
| Ethylhexyl Triazone | 1.15 | ||
| D | VP/Eicosene Copolymer | 1.00 | |
| HALLSTAR® GMS PURE | Glyceryl Stearate | 1.45 | |
| HALLSTAR® PEG 4400 MS | PEG-100 Stearate | 1.50 | |
| Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides | 2.00 | ||
| E | Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] | 2.50 | |
| F | Water (Aqua) (deionized) | Up to 100 | |
| Glycerin | 3.00 | ||
| Disodium EDTA | 0.05 | ||
| Xanthan Gum (pharma grade) | 0.25 | ||
| G | Preservative | a.n. | |
| EUROL® BT | Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Water | 0.50 | |
| Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80 | 1.80 | ||
| Cyclopentasiloxane | 2.00 | ||
| Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate | 2.00 |
Formula No. JZ8-159
Procedure:
1. In secondary vessel combine phase A, start mixing, add phase B to phase A and, when uniform, add phase C to phase AB.
2. Heat this oil phase ABC to 80°C and then add phase D to it.
3. When phase ABCD is homogeneous, add phase E to it and mix until phase E is fully dissolved.
4. To the main vessel add Water and Glycerin of phase F, start mixing, add the Disodium EDTA and then add Xanthan Gum.
5. Heat phase F to 75°C with continued mixing and ensure it is homogeneous.
6. When both phases are at designated temperatures, slowly add phase ABCDE to phase F with prop mixing and then homogenize for 3 minutes.
7. Start cooling batch with center stir (prop) mixing and when < 50°C, add phase G items one by one to it with continued mixing.
8. Replace any water lost to evaporation and mix batch until smooth.
