This BB cream formulation was designed to provide superior broad spectrum (SPF/PFA <3), label SPF 40 performance. SolaStay® S1 provides very rapid and efficient excited state quenching of Avobenzone and also mitigates the photocatalytic and reactive oxygen species generating activities of the oxides to improve sunscreen performance. HallBrite® BHB, Sensolene® and HallTress®DIBA Special contribute to UV filter solubility and enhance product feel. Eurol® BT contributes its antiaging, skin elasticizing, anti-oxidant and moisturizing properties. This formulation was subjected to in vitro analysis and delivered SPF ~45 , PFA (PPD) ~21 performance with critical wavelength 382 nm.
|Sequence||Trade Name||INCI Name||%|
|A||SolaStay® S1*||Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene||2.00|
|Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate]||5.00|
|B||Iron Oxides (yellow) (CI 77492),
|Iron Oxides (red) (CI 77491),
|Iron Oxides (black) (CI 77499),
|C||Titanium Dioxide [Titanium Dioxide] (CI 77891), Triethoxycaprylylsilane||5.00|
|HALLSTAR® GMS PURE||Glyceryl Stearate||1.45|
|HALLSTAR® PEG 4400 MS||PEG-100 Stearate||1.50|
|Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides||2.00|
|E||Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone]||2.50|
|F||Water (Aqua) (deionized)||Up to 100|
|Xanthan Gum (pharma grade)||0.25|
|EUROL® BT||Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Water||0.50|
|Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80||1.80|
|Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate||2.00|
Formula No. JZ8-159
1. In secondary vessel combine phase A, start mixing, add phase B to phase A and, when uniform, add phase C to phase AB.
2. Heat this oil phase ABC to 80°C and then add phase D to it.
3. When phase ABCD is homogeneous, add phase E to it and mix until phase E is fully dissolved.
4. To the main vessel add Water and Glycerin of phase F, start mixing, add the Disodium EDTA and then add Xanthan Gum.
5. Heat phase F to 75°C with continued mixing and ensure it is homogeneous.
6. When both phases are at designated temperatures, slowly add phase ABCDE to phase F with prop mixing and then homogenize for 3 minutes.
7. Start cooling batch with center stir (prop) mixing and when < 50°C, add phase G items one by one to it with continued mixing.
8. Replace any water lost to evaporation and mix batch until smooth.